Archive record
- This address
- http://www.lewestown.com/lewes_history/EarlyLewes.html
- Originally
- “Early Lewes History” by Hazel D. Brittingham, Lewestown Publishers, 1997
- Original page
- Capture of 5 March 2001 at the Internet Archive
The article below is newly written and independently sourced. It is not the original author’s text; that remains under copyright and is linked above. A short extract from it is quoted, with attribution, further down this page.
Early Lewes — the first town in the first state, on its fourth attempt
Lewes dates itself from 1631, when Dutch investors founded Zwaanendael on this shore. What the slogan leaves out is that the colony was wiped out within about a year, that the next settlement was razed by the English in 1664 with reports that not even a nail was left, and that the town we can walk through is the survivor of several failures.
Zwaanendael, 1631: whale oil and a very short year
On 3 June 1631 Dutch settlers established a whaling and trading post on this shore and named it Zwaanendael — archaic Dutch for “swan valley”. The backers were investors associated with the Dutch West India Company, several of them from Hoorn in North Holland, and the commercial plan was whale oil, with agriculture to fill the off-season.
It was the first European settlement in what is now Delaware, and it lasted about a year. In 1632 a local band of Lenape killed all thirty-two settlers. The accounts of why differ and are transmitted almost entirely through Dutch sources with an obvious interest in how the story was told; what is not in dispute is the outcome.
So the foundational date Lewes claims is real, and the settlement it refers to was annihilated. The town’s continuity with 1631 is a continuity of place, not of people.
The second failure: Plockhoy’s Mennonites, 1663
The Dutch were slow to come back. It took the threat of annexation by the Colony of Maryland to prompt action: in 1662 the city of Amsterdam granted land at the Hoernkills — the area around Cape Henlopen — to a group of Mennonites, funded by a substantial civic loan to get them established.
The party was led by Pieter Cornelisz Plockhoy of Zierikzee, a social reformer with something close to a utopian programme. Forty-one people crossed on the Dutch ship Sint Jacob, among them Otto Wolgast from Wolgast in Pomerania. The settlement was established in 1663.
It lasted a year. In 1664 the English captured New Netherland from the Dutch and ordered the place razed, with reports afterwards that “not even a nail” was left. Two settlements, two total losses, inside thirty-three years.
The name changes, and the town finally sticks
What regrew around the Hoernkill afterwards did so slowly and under a different flag. The place was known as the Whorekill — an English rendering of the Dutch — long before it was Lewes, and that name carried its own argument about origins, which we set out separately in our page on the Whorekill.
The town was eventually named Lewes after the county town of Sussex in England, part of the same wholesale transfer of English names that gave Delaware its Sussex and Kent counties. The English naming is the reason this site exists in the shape it does: there are two Leweses, and people looking for one keep finding the other.
By the eighteenth century the settlement was a working port with pilots, shipwrights and an economy tied to the bay. That is the Lewes that survives in fabric — the Ryves Holt House, the Maull House, the streets surveyed in 1722 — rather than anything Dutch. Almost nothing above ground is older than the English town.
What “First Town in the First State” actually claims
The slogan bundles two separate facts. Lewes was the site of the first European settlement in Delaware, in 1631. Delaware was the first state to ratify the United States Constitution, in 1787. The two have nothing to do with each other beyond both being firsts, and the phrase does not assert continuous occupation from 1631 — though it is often read that way.
The honest version is more interesting than the slogan. This is a place people kept trying to settle, in the face of massacre, razing and a shifting cape, because the geography at the mouth of the bay was too valuable to leave alone. Lewes today has a population of a little over three thousand. It has been starting again for four hundred years.
From the original page at this address
“Present-day Lewes traces its history back to 1631 when a settlement was established by Dutch investors from Hoorn, Holland, under the Dutch West India Company. Swanendael (Valley of the Swans) was the name given to the site chosen by the entrepreneurs for an anticipated whale-oil industry.”
Hazel D. Brittingham, “Early Lewes History”, Lewestown Publishers, 1997. © Copyright 1997 Hazel D. Brittingham. Short extract quoted for commentary; the full original is at the Internet Archive.
Elsewhere in this archive: the Whorekill · the De Vries monument · the Dutch and English visual images
Where this comes from
- Wikipedia, Lewes, Delaware — the founding date of 3 June 1631, the name Zwaanendael, the killing of all 32 settlers in 1632, the 1662 Amsterdam grant at the Hoernkills, Plockhoy of Zierikzee and the 41 passengers of the Sint Jacob, the 1663 settlement and its razing by the English in 1664 with “not even a nail” left, and the 2020 population of 3,303.
- Wikipedia, Zwaanendael Colony — the 1631 construction and the meaning of the name as archaic Dutch for “swan valley”.
- Hazel D. Brittingham, “Early Lewes History”, Lewestown Publishers, 1997, at the Internet Archive — the Hoorn investors, the Dutch West India Company connection, and the whale-oil and off-season agriculture plan.
The reasons for the 1632 killings are contested and reach us almost entirely through Dutch accounts written by parties with an interest in the telling. This page reports the outcome, which is not disputed, and declines to adjudicate the cause.
Planning a visit
Where to stay near historic Lewes
The 1631 settlement site, the Zwaanendael Museum and the surviving colonial houses are all in and around the compact historic core. If you are coming to see it, this map shows current availability and prices in the area.
We may earn a commission from bookings made through this map, at no cost to you. It does not affect anything written above, and our historic walking guide has the practical visiting detail.